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Santa Cruz Bicycles

Stop Pushing Sales and Build Brand Equity

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Two articles were published this week that address the issue of rising bicycle costs . The first, by Bicycle Retailer and Industry News (BRAIN) strictly references statistics on rising prices in the cycling industry. The second, by Matt Wragg of Pinkbike, suggests that getting rid of model years could encourage riders to buy more expensive bicycles by prolonging their obsolescence (the bicycles, not the customers). While these articles make some good points, I have some suggestions of my own.

Santa Cruz is a wildly successful cycling brand that illustrates my argument. Here’s why they do so well:

1. They make good bikes that ride well, look nice and last a long time.

2. They only make mountain bikes, which allows for more consistent branding.

3. They keep models, mostly unchanged, for several years.

4. They support discontinued models with readily available replacement parts.

Santa Cruz Bicycles

 

Consequently, they have an excellent brand reputation. Let’s focus on that third bullet point – how long they keep models and how they update them. Despite the fact that it was recently discontinued, the Blur LT illustrates this point well. They introduced the Blur in 2003 and kept it mostly unchanged until a major redesign in 2008. Version 2.0 carried on into 2013 with minor updates like a tapered headtube, ISCG tabs and 142mm dropouts – but the overall platform remained mostly unchanged. That bike was discontinued and replaced by the Bronson, a 150mm, 27.5″ wheeled trail bike which for all intents and purposes is a third generation Blur LT.

The Blur is just one example, but look at other bikes and you’ll see Santa Cruz keeps its models for about four years. Perhaps more importantly, they support those models long after their extinction. Some criticize them for being late to the game when new standards and trends emerge. Indeed, it took some time to add 142mm dropouts to their line up even after their competition had embraced the standard.

What Santa Cruz is doing is building brand equity. When a bike carries on through multiple years unchanged it demonstrates stability and shows potential customers that they stand behind their designs.  It reinforces the image that they make great bikes and reaffirms purchase decisions from current owners. It also gives credibility to their brand and helps customers build an emotional bond with their bikes.

That might sound ridiculous but consider this: riders want to love their bikes. They create precious memories on their bikes and every time they look at them, they’re reminded of those events. That being said, it’s hard to develop any attachment when their bike has been completely redesigned less than a year later. Combine that with an industry tendency to bash previous products in an effort to sell new ones and you leave customers feeling dejected and maybe even remorseful.

The last thing a company wants is for customers to feel remorseful about purchasing their products. The marketing plan often seems to be “look, we’ve made everything so much better that you should run out and buy the new one immediately!” and therein lies the problem that Mr. Wragg mentions – most consumers don’t have the financial means to buy a new $5,000 bike every year. And that’s okay! They don’t have to and we shouldn’t expect them to! Bike companies should focus on building brand equity, so that when those customers DO buy another bike, they buy it from them. Build a culture around products and encourage customers to do the same.

Honda Civics

Not convinced? Let’s play off Matt Wragg’s line of thinking and make an analogy to the auto industry, more specifically the Honda Civic. Honda is one of the largest auto manufacturers and the Civic is one of their best selling models, first released in 1972. In 42 years, the Civic has been seen nine different generations. Some quick math reveals an average model life of 4.6 years. Honda prides itself on reliable cars that inspire customer loyalty. This strategy has paid off, as Honda ranks third nationally in customer loyalty.

The statistics referenced by BRAIN are worthy of concern. As bike costs rise and the average household income remains the same, companies need to adjust their thinking if they want to continue to be successful.

Sources

Wragg, M. (2014, February 28). Pinkbike poll: Should mountain bike companies consider ditching model years?. Retrieved from http://www.pinkbike.com/news/pinkbike-poll-should-mountain-bike-companies-consider-ditching-model-years-2014.html

Report available on ‘turbulent’ 2013 us bike market. (2014, February 24). Retrieved from http://www.bicycleretailer.com/studies-reports/2014/02/24/report-available-turbulent-2013-us-bike-market

Porsche, cadillac lead automotive brand loyalty improvements in first quarter, according to polk. (2013, June 5). Retrieved from https://www.polk.com/company/news/porsche_cadillac_lead_automotive_brand_loyalty_improvements_in_first_qtr

Honda civic history. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.edmunds.com/honda/civic/history.html

Performing with Pete Seeger, Live in 1999

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Pete Seeger Chris Berkley New Paltz Middle School 1999

The original photo, taken in 1999.

Pete Seeger passed away recently and it was an enormous loss for environmental activism. I had the luxury of meeting Mr. Seeger when he hosted a fundraising performance at my elementary school in 1999. My 4th grade class took a field trip on the Sloop Clearwater, followed by a concert at my high school. He performed some of his more famous tunes and was accompanied by my 4th grade class for at least one song. This photo of us after the concert was recently featured in the Poughkeepsie Journal’s tribute article.

Pete Seeger Poughkeepsie Journal Article

The photo as it appeared in the Poughkeepsie Journal

From Where We Stand

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I’m really excited that the official trailer for From Where We Stand was just released this past week! From Where We Stand is a new mountain bike film promoted by Brice Shirbach of Fattirefests.com. It’s a project he launched to promote riding locations on the east coast, which traditionally doesn’t get as much attention from the mountain bike media.

Way back when Brice was soliciting advice for filming locations, I suggested he look at Oneonta, NY as a potential location. During my four years as a student at SUNY Oneonta I spent a lot of time building and rehabilitating trails and many of those trails are featured prominently in the film. In recent years the town has embraced its rapidly growing cycling community and with help from some community leaders they welcomed Brice and the production crew with open arms. The Oneonta segment features local riders too – namely fellow trail builder Sam Brown-Shaklee and Binghamton-based enduro pro Paul Dotsenko.

The footage made available so far is fantastic and I can’t wait to see the final cut, to be released later this month. Seeing the fruits of my labor in a professional production like this one is a tremendously gratifying feeling and brings some attention to a very underrated riding area.

Custom On One Inbred Part 6: Results and Finishing Touches

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My semi-custom steel hardtail project (Part 6)

See also parts One, Two, Three, Four and Five.
 

I’ve been riding the Inbred for months now and I enjoy it more and more every time. Phenomenal bike, truly. I made some tweaks – I scrapped the Performance-branded Forte Pisgah tires a couple months ago in favor of some Schwalbe Nobby Nics (2.25s) and set them up tubeless. Both tires were 540g out of the box, compared to 730g each for the Pisgahs. I usually put a lot of sealant in my tires so I didn’t lose much weight there, but that’s not why I do it. The Nobby Nics have incredible grip – they’re like velcro in the turns – and the lost rotational weight has made the bike much more nimble. I also swapped out the seatpost for a longer one (350mm to 400mm) because I was maxed out on minimum insertion and wanted to make sure there wasn’t a chance of cracking the seat tube/top tube junction (prone to happen on frames with long post extension). I went with a zero offset post this time because the seat angle is very slack and I want to be centered over the bottom bracket more.The most exciting addition is a set of custom fork decals for the Revelation. The red/gray graphics on there were fugly and clashed with my black/green theme so I found a guy on Ebay who does custom vinyl stickers and ordered some in apple green. At $9.99 and $2.99 for shipping, they’re a downright bargain. A quality decal, your choice of colors and super fast shipping. His Ebay username is palmermtb and his family’s company name is Stickersbydesign.com – they do all sorts of other custom work too. Custom green vinyl stickers for Rockshox Revelation forkNew green vinyl fork decals

Granny Smith Green On One Inbred with new vinyl fork decals applied

I have 581 miles on this bike now. It’s my go to ride – when I walk out to the garage and pick a steed it’s the first one I swing a leg over almost every time.  Shame to my other bikes really, as they’re quite nice too. There’s a decked out Santa Cruz Blur LT and a carbon Cannondale SuperSix with full Ultegra. Sometimes it’s the simplest bikes that are the most fun. 

Completed Built On One Inbred Granny Smith Green Powdercoat

Custom On One Inbred Part 5: Powdercoating and Assembly

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My semi-custom steel hardtail project (Part 5)

 
On to the fifth and final part of my project. I bought the frame. I ordered parts. I had it welded. I assembled it. I test rode it. I disassembled it. Which brings us here, to paint. In the past I’ve owned plenty of bikes that had standard wet paint. I had a frame that was anodized. But I’ve never had one that was powdercoated. For this job it seemed like the best bet. There aren’t many commercial anodizing outfits around. And wet paint isn’t very durable. Powdercoating is a hard durable finish and powdercoaters run abundant.
The Color
The color is called Granny Smith Green. It’s a two stage coating: a base coat followed by a clear. The base coat is what’s called a dormant color – it goes on really dark and looks downright horrible. The clear coat makes everything come alive, brightens it up and brings out the metallic sparkle.
The Powdercoater
Finding a company that is familiar with bikes is key. A couple minutes of extra preparation taping things off is the difference between installing parts and spending hours reaming and facing – especially with such a hard durable finish. Price is secondary – I believe that you save money by doing the job right the first time.

The first place I stopped was K&S Powdercoating in Poughkeepsie, NY. They had the color in stock and Tim quoted me $225 for blasting, prep and powdercoating. They’ve done bikes before and received favorable reviews from some customers who had work done there.The second outfit I spoke to was Precision Powdercoating in Connecticut. I emailed John on a Sunday night and he replied back several minutes later. He also had experience with bikes, had my color in stock and quoted me $160 for blasting and coating. The only downside is that he’s located almost two hours from where I live. 
I also spoke with a third company, but wasn’t impressed with their operation and didn’t even get a quote. Since they were local I went with K&S. Dropped the frame off on a Wednesday and it was done the next day. Super impressive.
The Results
K&S did a great job. The frame was 99% perfect. They taped off EVERYTHING – BB shell, head tube, seat tube, ISCG tabs, even bottle cage braze-ons and derailleur hanger threads. Nevertheless I did the usual prep work anyway.The BB needed facingOn One Inbred ISCG Tabs

On One Inbred non-driveside BB shell

So I chased the threads

Chasing threads on the On One Inbred Bottom Bracket Shell

Then I faced the shell

Facing the On One Inbred's Bottom Bracket

I also faced the head tube. No reaming required here.

On One Inbred Steel Head tube

Facing the On One's head tube

Steel Head Tube After Facing

With the prep work done, the frame was ready to go! But since the paint is so immaculate, here are some more gratuitous frame shots…

Granny Smith Green Steel Head Tube

 

On One Inbred Bottom Bracket Shell

 

On One Inbred Powdercoated Seat Stay Yoke

 

Freshly welded and powdercoated IS disc mount

 

Powdercoated BB shell area

 

 


Assembly…

Shimano XT M760 cranks with MRP bashguard and E.13 32T chainring

 

Brand new steel bottle cage bolts

 

SRAM X9 rear derailleur on Inbred dropout

 

1x9 gearing with Shimano XT brakes

 

Shimano SLX disc brakes and Rockshox Revelation

 

RaceFace Atlas 785mm bars with 30mm of rise

 

Fresh granny smith green powdercoat on the Inbred's top tube

 

Bottom Bracket and Shimano crankset installed

 

Total On One Inbred bike weight

 

Completed Built On One Inbred Granny Smith Green Powdercoat

I added new RaceFace Atlas bars, which even at 785mm wide are still 30g lighter than the Bontrager bar I had on there (690mm, 370g). I also added new SLX rotors, trimmed the brake hoses to fit and added a chainstay protector. Weight is 27.64lbs with XT pedals.I would love to say that the bike is finished, but it’s not. I have a 60mm stem on there, mostly because it’s black. In reality I’ll probably order a black 40mm stem since that’s what I’m used to (I have a white one) and it just feels ‘right.’ I’d like lighter tires to differentiate this from my fully – most likely Nobby Nics in a 2.25, tubeless. And the red decals on the Revelation clash with my green frame – perhaps I’ll get some green ones made up!

Custom On One Inbred Part 4: Preliminary Testing

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After I got the frame welded up, some product testing was in order. I was planning on having the frame powdercoated, which would be a fairly expensive endeavor and I wanted to make sure everything worked. The only bit that really needed testing were the ISCG tabs. So I built the bike up, mounted the chain guide and hit the road (literally and figuratively).

On One Inbred assembled

The weather was nice on my day off and I decided to ride the rail trail over to some shorter local trails that wouldn’t have too much snow on them. It totaled twenty-eight miles and everything checked out but a lot of the more technical parts were icy and I had to walk – so I couldn’t thoroughly test everything.


 The next weekend I mounted some slick tires, climbed into a truck with some friends and drove to Cleveland to ride Ray’s Indoor Mountain Bike Park. The drive was hell on the bike. I had loaded my (largely) raw steel frame onto a Thule T2 and proceeded to put it through 480 miles of rain, snow, sleet and the rest of Pennsylvania’s winter misery (which I’m convinced is more miserable than that of the states that surround it) en route to indoor goodness. Here’s some gratuitous hack GoPro footage of me rolling the pump track (no pedaling, I swear!).  

 
This bike isn’t much of a dirt jumper, and if I was going to ride Ray’s a lot I’d get something else – but for the odd seasonal visit it held its own and I had a blast. Most importantly it confirmed that the bike was 100% mechanically. With that said, the only thing left to do was paint it!  
Part Five will be the most exciting yet, as everything starts to come together.  

Custom On One Inbred Part 3: Welding and Fabrication

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(This is part three in a series on my steel One On Inbred modifications. Check out part one and part two to get the full story.)

This step is perhaps the most critical. It adds a personal touch, makes the frame unique and gives it a certain personality stock frames don’t have. It also makes it superior than the previous Inbred I had. When a bike is stolen from you, you have to replace it with something of a higher quality. You have to move on and up. Bigger and better. I call it the George Jefferson effect. I guess it rationalizes the emotion somehow (I never liked that bike anyway). I accomplished this by ordering cable guides and ISCG tabs from Paragon Machine Works. I ordered six large miter guides (for the top tube) and two small miter guides (for the seat stay).
Cable guides, beautiful cable guides!

Paragon Machine Works steel cable guides

ISCG tabs!

ISCG tabs from Paragon Machine works

That very same day the parts arrived, my welder Paul called and asked if I could come out to Binghamton that night to have him do the work. I wanted this bike ready for my trip to Ray’s Indoor Mountain Bike Park the next weekend, so I drove out. 

We got started on the ISCG tabs since they would require the most work. The inner diameter of the plate was smaller than the outer diameter of the bottom bracket shell, so Paul mitered the hole bigger with a 1.5″ bit. Unfortunately this still wasn’t enough to fit over the shell so I went to work with the grinding wheel and enlarged the hole a little bit more. The back side also needed to be ground down to clear the chain stay. It took a while – grind, test fit, grind, test fit, so on and so forth. 

On One Inbred on the work bench



While I was doing that Paul turned his attention to that pesky brake mount. He used a wire wheel to take the paint off and laid down a gorgeous bead to gussy it up a bit. 

The On One's brake mount re-welded


By then I had the ISCG plate ready, so we refocused on that. Tab placement was tricky. The ISCG standard specifies that the plate sits 2.5mm recessed from the face of the BB shell and that the rearward tab sits at an angle of 50 degrees from an imaginary center line between the rear drop out and the BB. Creating a center line wasn’t hard – we installed a dummy axle and ran a string from that to the center of the bottom bracket then used tape to mark the line. Once we had a reference line to work off, we protracted the angle and marked the shell and the plate.

Test fitting the ISCG plate to the Inbred

The tricky part is creating the 2.5mm recess. We used a BB-mount ISCG tab, allen bolts and an old bottom bracket to create a surface upon which to rest the plate so Paul could tack it in place. I’ve read about frames with chainguide tabs that are just tacked on and snap off when the guide took a hard impact. While the odds of that are slim there’s no sense going to all this trouble and risking it. Paul laid an immaculate “stack of dimes” weld around the whole perimeter.

Paul welding the ISCG plate on the Inbred.

That sucker ain’t goin’ nowhere

The ISCG plate permanently welded to the Inbred's BB shell.

With the tabs all finished we transitioned to cable guides. While the original guides were on top of the top tube, we opted to mount them underneath where they would look cleaner. Paul also suggested running the brake hose under the seat stay to match the derailleur cable.

Rear derailleur and brake guides, under the top tube

New cable guides welded under the top tube

Seat stay brake guide

New Paragon brake cable guide on the seatstay



Welding these was pretty straightforward once we figured out placement and soon enough we were on to my final request: filling rack and v-brake mounts. By now it was close to midnight and since these required the least preparation we did it the quick and dirty way. First we ground down the heads a bit, and then Paul filled the threaded fitting. There was a little hesitation, as these fittings were originally brazed into the frame and when Paul welded the filler, the brass more or less melted and threatened to move the placement of the braze on. Fortunately it solidified quickly and there were no issues. We left the grinding for another day and I went home.
V-brake mounts

V-brake mounts filled

You can see the ring of brass around the perimeter
Rack mounts filled


And with that, the technical work was done. Stay tuned for part 4…

Custom On One Inbred Part 2: Frame Preparation

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(This is part two of a series of posts on my custom steel hardtail project. Read part one here.)

Once I received the frame I got to work immediately. I needed to remove the rest of the cable guides, in preparation for new ones. I also decided to remove the front derailleur housing stop and the lower rack mounts. Here you can see how the cable guides were taken off:
P1120339
So I filed them down
Steel cable guides removed
Rear rack mounts removed
P1120337
P1120344
I also inspected the frame to make sure it wasn’t damaged or cracked in any way. I did find one spot that concerned me. The weld on the disc mount looked sloppy on the inside edge. 
P1120327
P1120325
The outside however, looked fine
P1120333
After asking some experienced frame builders, they agreed that it looked sloppy but were of the opinion that it wouldn’t be an issue structurally. Either way, nothing a little time under the torch can’t fix!
In Part Three, the frame will go to the frame builder who will add ISCG tabs, cable guides and finishing touches. 

Custom On One Inbred Frame Build (Part 1)

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Two years ago I bought a steel On One Inbred frame and built it into an all mountain-style hardtail using parts off my Stumpjumper. It was a great bike – similar geometry to my long travel full suspension rig, but with a sprightly playfulness not present there. It had a 140mm Fox Float, 1×9 X.9 drivetrain with Mavic wheels, a short stem and a wide bar. It was a candy cane red and white and weighed just over 27lbs. Not too shabby for a parts bin build. I enjoyed it immensely for days when I didn’t want to lug around the extra heft of my fully.

Steel Red On One Inbred

I say “enjoyed” (past tense) because on my second day living in California, an active member of the scum of the Earth club stole it off the back of my car while I was looking for apartments. I filed a police report, but as most are surely aware those rarely go anywhere and finding stolen bikes falls slightly below ticketing jaywalkers on most precincts’ priority lists. Such is life.

A couple weeks later I was jonesing for the lovely ride quality of steel, so I started building another similar bike up. I picked up a Ragley Blue Pig frame for cheap, found a Rockshox Revelation on Ebay for pennies on the dollar and got to work. I rode that bike for a while, but it wasn’t the same. The frame alone is much beefier and overbuilt and that contributed to a overall bike weight that was 2-3lbs more than the On One. And it wasn’t as pretty. (It doesn’t matter how nice the bike rides, you still have to look at that face every morning)

So began the quest to find another one. I sourced an 18″ frame on craigslist in Oregon for $75 and the seller agreed to ship it. It was in rough shape but I was OK with that. I had secretly hatched a plan for some custom additions. The frame I bought had the cable guides ground off – I’m not sure why. I also wanted to add ISCG tabs for a proper chainguide, and remove the fender/rack mounts. My friend Paul welds BMX frames for a small company in the Binghamton area so I ordered parts from Paragon Machine Works and he offered to do the work for me.

On One Inbred frame on Craigslist

Stay tuned for Part 2…

Santa Cruz Blur LT at Stewart State Forest

Rebuild and Adjust Santa Cruz VPP Suspension Pivots

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Rebuild and Adjust Santa Cruz VPP Suspension Pivots

Santa Cruz Blur LT at Stewart State Forest

This past year I started riding a Santa Cruz Blur LT. Lots of cool things to love about this bike, but in this post I’m going to focus on the suspension bearings. The pivots on this bike are designed rather brilliantly, and for how good they are, I haven’t seen Santa Cruz brag nearly enough about it. So here’s my tech write up…

Most full suspension bikes use some sort of four pivot design that typically results in eight or more bearings pressed into the frame connecting chainstays, seatstays, a linkage and the shock to the front triangle. VPP suspension is designed much differently, with a one piece rear triangle and two linkages that hold everything together. The bearings are pressed into the linkages and the whole package ends up being very stiff laterally.
The really cool part about this system is the adjustability. Other designs utilize a cartridge bearing with spacers and a bolt that sandwiches everything together and doesn’t allow for any adjustment. The Santa Cruz system is set up like a cup and cone hub and you can actually adjust the bearing preload. Photos follow…
Santa Cruz VPP Pivot Axle

This is how the pivots appear on the surface. On other bikes, if you have a loose pivot, you check torque on the bolt and that can tighten it up. Not so here. You can crank down on that bolt until it snaps, but if the pivot axle is loose, it won’t help at all. So let’s go in depth.

Loosen the bolt and remove it.

Santa Cruz VPP Pivot Axle

The gold-colored washer behind the bolt has an allen head in it, but it isn’t actually threaded into anything. You can use an allen key to turn in and pop it out of the pivot axle. Notice how it tapers down.

Santa Cruz VPP conical washer

Now you can un-thread the pivot axle. The pivot axle threads into the frame and tightens up on the bearings.  Notice how the end of the axle has four vertical slits in it. The conical washer tightens into these and expands them, locking the pivot axle in place so it can’t loosen or tighten. Brilliant!

Santa Cruz VPP Pivot axle

Santa Cruz VPP Pivot axle

The bearings themselves are open on one size and have a removable cover that lets you re-grease them. The idea is that this system is so easy to rebuild that you can do it more frequently and the bearings will last longer.

Santa Cruz VPP suspension bearing cover

 

The upper link in its entirety. All the bearings are pressed into here, so if you do need to replace them you just unbolt the link and press them out in a vise. No need to awkwardly do it on the bike stand or remove chainstays, seatstays, etc.

Santa Cruz VPP carbon upper link

You’ll notice everything in my photos has grease on it. Grease it up thoroughly or you can get some wicked creaking. Once lubed up however they’re nice and quiet.

To reassemble and readjust:

1. Make sure the black bearing cover is in place.
2. Slide the pivot axle into place and thread it in. Tighten until there is no play – SC recommends a torque value of roughly 35 in/lbs.
3. Place the gold washer into the end of the pivot axle, making sure the smaller end is facing the frame.
4. Thread and tighten the allen bolt. M5 bolts should be tightened to 100 in/lbs and M6 bolts to 110 in/lbs.
5. Ride!